Start by climbing the two-hundred-step winding stairway of the forty-metre-high tower. This is well worth the effort, as you will gain an idea of the beauty of the town and of the immensity of the Alentejo stretching into the distance.

Then make your way down to the historical centre and lose yourself among the narrow streets. There are some gems here to discover, such as the mannerist and baroque cathedral, the Church of Santa Maria, the Visigoth museum in the Church of Santo Amaro and the Museu Rainha Dona Leonor in the Convento da Conceição. A fine collection of archaeological items, azulejos and religious art awaits you here.

And as you admire the architectural splendour of this convent you'll be sure to an atmosphere of undying love, such as that experienced by Sister Mariana de Alcoforado, the lovelorn author of the 'Love Letters of a Portuguese Nun'.

This is the ideal book to read in the placid white surroundings of Beja, perhaps in the Praça da República, which is dominated by the pillory and the Renaissance Church of the Misericórdia and which boasts a fine square of Manueline buildings. And then why not enjoy a meal in an Alentejo restaurant? For dessert, sample the subtle flavours of the renowned conventual sweets.