We visit Beja in an atmosphere of peace and discover stories of conquests and lost loves.

We begin with a visit to the Torre de Menagem (the Keep) of the Castle, which was so important in the battles to defend Portugal's borders. With its 40 metres of height and built entirely of marble, it is the landmark of Beja. It is worth your while to climb to the top, from which you can see the city and the surrounding countryside of the Alentejo.

Close by is the Santiago Church, the Cathedral and the Santo Amaro Church, where the Visigothic collection of the Regional Museum is located. Following along Rua D. Manuel and after passing in front of the University, a building that was formerly a hospital, we arrive in the heart of the city, the Praça da República.

Around us are the buildings of the Manueline style, which add a special note to the square, which also has a pillory of the 16th century as well, and the Misericórdia Church, a major Renaissance work. Then we follow the Rua do Touro and come to the Jorge Vieira Museum, named for a prominent Portuguese sculptor of the 20th century, who is noted for his figures in terracotta.

Further along, there is another symbol of the city, the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, where the Regional Museum of Beja is located. Here we learn about the famous story of Mariana Alcoforado, a nun who lived here and who is credited with writing the “Cartas Portugueses” (Letters From A Portuguese Nun), genuine declarations of love to a French knight. The interior is a wonder to the eye, being decorated with fresco paintings on the ceilings and walls and with a profusion of azulejos (glazed tiles) dating from the 15th century, which makes the visit a veritable class on this art form.

This was certainly one of the convents where, centuries ago, some of the egg-and-sugar confections were created that are found in the region and are a delight to everyone’s sweet tooth.

When we reach the Mértola gates, one of the exits through the walls of Beja, we see before us the Convent of São Francisco, currently transformed into a Pousada, and close by stands the public library dedicated to José Saramago, the Portuguese Nobel prize winner in Literature.

Very close to Beja, and as a pretext to see the countryside, we suggest a drive out to villa de Pisões, where we learn about life on a Roman farm and try to imagine how it was to live in the Alentejo two thousand years ago.